Rock Climbing in Guernsey

By Bill Exley

Our Rock-Climbing days during the 1950's, was mainly done, around the South coast of Guernseys' high Granite Cliffs of differing grades of difficulty. this was safe, solid climbing. I use the term 'Rock Climbing' casually, as it was more like Coast Line 'Traversing' or Rock 'Scrambling' , across Gullies or up and bypass them. Our term between us was 'Mooching', to take a stroll.

We never said at any point, standing at the base of a sheer cliff 'we will climb this one today' that would have been lunacy without training and correct safety climbing aids. Guernsey climbing clubs will follow all safety procedures, with strict adherence at all times.

One day at La Jaonnet Bay we did see two men scale the high sheer cliff face to the top, but they did use climbing tackle. - Another Sunday afternoon, a small boat came into the rocky bay, with about a dozen soldiers and they scaled the same cliff in a controlled manner, probably a Commando or S.A.S training exercise, or even the Elizabeth College cadets, under supervision I have been told.

Our Climbing (Or premeditated Scrambling) jaunts did include the 'Dog and Lion' rocks, the Dog Rock of the pair at Moulin Huet Bay, a common view to locals, is only accessible at ultra low spring tides, so your time to get across to it , climb it and return being limited ..

It was no easy climb as I had done it a few times, the ascent of this 60 to 80ft mini 'Old Man of Hoy' , was taken in a Lt to Rt Corkscrew route , and up around the back. The second time we did it we left our names in a Tobaco Tin , in a plastic bag, on the summit of only a few square feet. ( Photo courtesy of Bill Hill )

It was a truly memorable part of my life with Swimming , some long distance, starting off and returning back to La Vallette Gents Pool. This is one of four tidal- pools built in Victorian times c1865 using the local Guernsey Granite. In oreder of approach, the Gentleman's pool, Horseshoe pool, small and open ended, Ladie's pool , larger with diving boards , then a smaller Children's pool,. So strict Victoian modesty rules applied.

We were in groups swimming along the coast line and back, but always within 100yds of the rocks as a 'safety- net', or a breather, but this was never used, as I remember. We often undertook a double Castle Cornet swim, of apprx. one mile, on a whim, we were so at home in the sea from an early age. I did the Annual 'Castle Swim' in the Sept. of 1952, '53 and 1954, the icy sea is one degree or so warmer in the Autumn. (?) . - I had a potential 'Herm Swim' at the back of my mind, see more refs to the Herm Swim in the 'Ghost of Theo's Wreck' link below.

We used to all charge up 5 to 6 flights of steps, near the last pool at La Vallette, in a Cul de Sac, to a local headland site called ' Fort George', a left over from the 2nd World War and German Occupation. It is now the edge of a prestigious site for luxury houses with sea views. We worked our way around the coast regardless of tides, quickly navigating the gullies and rocks, up as far as Fermain Bay.

Here the last Challenge we did was a quick climb of Fermain Bay beach wall, about 20ft high built in Victoian times , using huge blocks of the local Guernsey Granite in different sizes . A unique Fire Place can be hand crafted to your specifications, using the many shades of Granite, Greys, Deep Blues and different shades of Greens in a linear or Jigsaw fashion, so the finished product is very pleasing to the eye, with a nice mantlepiece of Hardwwod or Stone

Femain Bay is in the news most Summer seasons, amongst other spots, for 'Cliff Face Rescues', for stranded climbers (visitors) who take on dangerous climbs , then become trapped, freeze and unable to move up or down . There is a fully trained team of people who have to do a cliff top descent to do a rescue, being made up of competent Police, Fire Brigadr or the St Johns' Ambulance employees. ( I surmise ) or even, a 'call out' including highly skilled Rock Climbers from the local clubs.

For our wall climb there was a nice beach of shingle pebbles to land on, many feet deep if we ran out of a hold. This took us about 15 mins and I remember that David Kreckeler was the most adept at this type of 'finger tip' climbing. We usually had a bemused audience of Visitors watching us.

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Last revision made by Bill Exley on - / - 16th Mar-2022

For Billy Hill, David Kreckeler, John Lihou (Lou) - his wife Pat who still lives in Freeport, Grand Bahama - ( Dec 2021 )

and Friends of Nigel Froome, see my Link to Theo's Wreck

1st. Guernsey Sea Scouts , ( Bill Hill ) - /- The Ghost of Theo's Wreck, or Back to Index Page