ERY HISTORY:
database file source="h:/!Genuki/RecordTranscriptions/YKS/ERYHistory.txt"
RIVERS OF THE EAST RIDING.
A glance at the map which accompanies this
volume will show that the East Riding is much less copiously watered by rivers
and streams than any other portion of the county. This arises chiefly from the
absence of any great elevations which form the never-failing source of rivers.
The Ouse, which is formed by the junction of the Swale and the Ure, does not
enter the Riding, but becomes its western boundary from York throughout the
remainder of its course to the Humber. It receives several considerable tributaries
from the Pennine hills, but these lie wholly within the North and West Ridings.
Its length, from Swale Nab at the junction of the Swale and Ure to where its
waters are lost in the Humber, is 59½ miles, and it is navigable throughout its
whole course. It flows through a low flat country, elevated but very little above
the sea level, and is ascended by the tides to Naburn Lock, about five miles below
York, where its average rise is about 6 feet 4 inches, its highest 10 feet 11 inches,
and its lowest 4 feet 3 inches. Previous to the construction of the lock in 1757,
the influence of the tides was felt as far as York; and the small craft of the time
could reach the city with the tide, which did not flow more than four feet at Ouse
bridge. By the construction of this lock, vessels of from 120 to 150 tons burthen
were enabled to reach the city, and for upwards of a century it answered its
purpose. This lock is 90 feet long, 21 feet wide, and 10 feet 6 inches deep. A
new and larger lock was constructed, and formally opened by Prince Albert Victor
in July, 1888. Its dimensions are 152 feet by 26 feet, and 13 feet 6 inches deep.
Dredging operations have also been carried on, and now vessels of 400 tons
burthen can pass through to York. By this river the greater part of the rainfall
of Yorkshire is conveyed to the sea; including its tributaries the extent of land
drained by the Ouse is 4,207 square miles.
York owed its importance in times past to its situation on this navigable
river. Further down, on the Ainsty side of the river, is Bishopthorpe, the
residence of the Archbishops of York; still further down, the river passes under
the ruined walls of Cawood Castle, the fortified abode of the earlier occupants of
the archiepiscopal see, and for some time the residence of Cardinal Wolsey, after
he had incurred the displeasure of Henry VIII. About two miles further down
is Riccall, where Harald Hardrada, of Norway, and Earl Tosti moored their fleet
previous to the battle of Stamford Bridge. Passing the villages of Wistow,
Broadgate, and Barlby, the river flows between its low banks to Selby with its
beautiful abbey church. After passing Barmby-on-the-Marsh the river channel
begins to widen, and at Goole, where the average rise of the tide is 11 feet, the
Ouse becomes a noble stream. About nine miles lower down it receives the
waters of the Trent, and the united streams are thenceforth known as
The Humber. - This fine estuary measures from Faxfleet to its mouth about
37 miles, and has an average breadth of between two and three miles, and a depth
of water at Hull sufficient to float vessels of the largest size. The average rise
of the tides at the latter town is about 16 feet 3 inches, whilst the highest tides
rise a little over 26 feet. When the tide begins to flow in the estuary the waters
of the Ouse rise with startling suddenness, and occasionally with considerable
violence. This peculiar rising or water-rush is locally known as the "Ager," a
name of doubtful origin, but supposed by many writers to have been derived from
Oegir, the terrible water-god of our Teutonic ancestors. The name of the river is
of uncertain etymology. It was called Aber by the Ancient Britons, and in
Ptolemy's Geography it is named Abus both the British and Latin name having
the same signification, that is, haven or estuary. Geoffrey of Monmouth, who is,
however, a very unsafe guide in the derivation of place-names, says it received its
name from Humber, king of the Huns, who was chased by Locrine, the eldest
son of Brutus, into the estuary, and was there drowned. Drayton, in his
"Polyalbion," advances the same derivation. But how are we to account for the
place called Humber near Leominster, and for Humberstone near Leicester, and
for Humberton in the North Riding? They could have no connection whatever
with the legend.
The Derwent, from the Celtic dwr gwin, the bright clear water, rises in the
eastern moorlands of the North Riding, and flowing southwards through Forge
valley, its course is deflected by the Wolds, towards the west. At this point it
becomes the boundary between the East and North Ridings, and flows thence
through a low flat district called the Carrs. At Stamford Bridge the river enters
the East Riding, and flows in a southerly direction to Barmby-on-the-Marsh,
where it empties itself into the Ouse. Its total length is 72 miles, and the area
of its basin is computed at 870 square miles. On its banks stood Derventio, first
a British and afterwards a Roman town; but its exact site has not been
determined, though it is generally supposed to have stood in the vicinity of
Stamford Bridge. Further up the river, at Malton, was another Roman station,
and in medieval times a celebrated Gilbertine monastery.
The Hull is formed by three brooks, which unite their waters near Driffield.
It flows southward, passing within a mile and a half of Beverley, with which it
is connected by a canal, and thence forward to the Humber, at Hull, or
Kingston-upon-Hull, as it was anciently styled. It is 28¾ miles in length, and drains the
land between the Wolds and the sea. It is navigable up to Frodingham Bridge,
some miles above Beverley, and thence to Great Driffield by means of a canal.
Gypsey is the name given to several intermittent brooks that rise in the
chalk hills, in the neighbourhood of Rudstone, and flow in an easterly direction
to the sea. They burst forth, sometimes quite suddenly, out of the ground,
particularly after long rains, and continue for some time to pour forth water in
considerable volume. At other seasons they are perfectly dry. They will be
more fully described in the parishes through which they flow.
COAST.
The configuration of the coast line, no less than the physical
structure of the surface, is directly dependent on the nature of the geological
strata which constitute it. This is strikingly illustrated in the contour of the
coast of Yorkshire. Whilst the softer rocks yield to the action of the sea, and
are scooped out into bays, the harder rocks resist its force, and form bold
headlands projecting into the sea. this is conspicuously seen in the chalk cliff
of Flamborough Head, and the coralline oolitic rock of Filey Brig. South of the
latter is Filey Bay, which has been recommended by a Royal Commission as
eminently suitable for a harbour of refuge. Recent discoveries have shown that
the Romans had a station at Filey, and some antiquarians think that this, and
not Dunsley, is the "well-havened bay" mentioned by Ptolemy. South of this
bay the land rises into lofty chalk cliffs, 450 feet high, near Speeton, and
159 feet at the extremity of Flamborough Head. These chalk rocks contain numerous
interesting fossils, the remains of an earlier world; among them may be found
many forms of Spongiadæ, Marsupites, Apiocrini, and other beautiful crinoids.
The rocky ledges in the face of the cliffs, are the haunts of innumerable flocks of
sea fowl. These birds, which were formerly destroyed in a wholesale fashion by
so called sportsmen, are now fortunately protected during the breeding season by
an Act of Parliament, passed in 1869.
South of this headland is Bridlington Bay, with its little harbour of
Bridlington Quay, and further on lies the flat alluvial plain of Holderness. Here the
coast is low, and constantly suffering from the encroachments of the sea. The
rate of destruction has been accurately ascertained by the recent Ordnance
re-survey, completed in 1889, and found to have been 215 feet since 1852, or at
the rate of 5ft. l0in, per annum. Towns and villages have been swept away by
the sea, and are now only known by name; and Ravenspurn, once a famous
seaport, was, centuries ago, engulfed, and now lies under the water. But whilst
the sea is encroaching on the east coast of Holderness it is receding on the shores
of the Humber estuary, and there many thousand acres of warp have been gained,
and converted into good agricultural land.
Data transcribed from:
Bulmer's East Riding
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Checking and correction by Peter Nelson.
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